What exactly are AHAs?
It is a group of acids derived from plants and animals that are used in cosmetic products such as skincare and hair care products. These include daily anti-aging products such as serums, toners, and creams, as well as more intensive treatments such as chemical peels, which are performed only once a year.
There are seven different types of AHAs that are commonly found in skincare products available throughout the industry. These are some examples:
- citric acid (from citrus fruits)
- glycolic acid (from sugar cane)
- hydroxycaproic acid (from royal jelly)
- hydroxycaprylic acid (from animals)
- lactic acid (from lactose or other carbohydrates)
- malic acid (from fruits)
- tartaric acid (from grapes)
There has been a great deal of research into the benefits and uses of AHAs. Although there are numerous AHAs available, glycolic and lactic acids are the most promising and well-researched, according to the latest research. These two AHAs are also less prone to cause discomfort. Consequently, the majority of OTC AHAs contain either glycolic acid or lactic acid as active ingredients.
AHAs are primarily employed in the exfoliation of the skin. They can also assist with:
- promote collagen and blood flow
- correct discoloration from scars and age spots
- improve the appearance of surface lines and wrinkles
- prevent acne breakouts
- brighten your complexion
- increase product absorption
1. They aid in the exfoliation process.
Skin exfoliation is the primary function of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). As a matter of fact, this is the foundation for all of the other advantages that AHAs provide.
Exfoliation is a procedure in which the skin cells on the surface of the skin are removed. This not only aids in the removal of dead skin cells but also makes room for the production of new skin cells.
As you get older, your natural skin cell cycle slows down, which can result in a buildup of dead skin cells. When you have an excessive amount of dead skin cells on your skin, they can accumulate and make your complexion appear dull.
The accumulation of dead skin cells can also exacerbate other underlying skin problems, such as:
- wrinkles
- Spots of old age
- acne
Despite this, not all AHAs have the same exfoliating properties as others. The type of AHA that you apply will affect the quantity of exfoliation that occurs. As a general rule, the greater the concentration of AHAs in a product, the greater the effectiveness of the exfoliating actions.
Consider the following:
Exuviance’s Performance Peel AP25 is recommended for those who want a more intensive exfoliation. In order to achieve the greatest effects, this peel should be applied up to two times per week and includes glycolic acid. You might also want to explore using an AHA exfoliant on a regular basis, such as this daily moisturizer from Nonie of Beverly Hills.
2. They aid in the visible brightening of the skin.
Dead skin cells are broken down as a result of the exfoliation caused by these acids. The new skin that has emerged beneath the surface is brighter and more radiant. AHAs containing glycolic acid can aid in the breakdown of skin cell accumulation, whereas products containing citric acid can brighten your skin even further if used together.
Consider the following:
Try Mario Badescu’s AHA and Ceramide Moisturizer for daily use to reap the benefits. It is formulated with citric acid and aloe vera gel to provide both brightening and soothing properties. The Green Apple Peel Full Strength from Juice Beauty can be used up to twice a week to deliver brighter skin through the use of three different AHAs.
3. They aid in the promotion of collagen production.
Collagen is a protein-rich fiber that helps to keep your skin plump and smooth by maintaining its elasticity. These fibers begin to break down as you get older. Collagen degradation may be accelerated as a result of sun exposure. This can result in skin that is sallow and sagging.
The collagen that makes up your skin is found in the middle layer of your skin (dermis). When the upper layer (epidermis) of the skin is removed, products such as AHAs may begin to operate on the dermis underneath the surface layer. AHAs may aid in the promotion of collagen production by destroying old collagen fibers in order to make way for new collagen fibers to form.
Consider the following:
Make use of Andalou Naturals’ Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask for a collagen-boosting boost.
4. They can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the face.
AHAs are well-known for their anti-aging properties, and they have the same effect on surface lines. The results of a 2015 study revealed that 9 out of 10 individuals who took AHAs over a three-week period saw substantial changes in their overall skin texture.
However, it is important to remember that AHAs are only effective for superficial lines and wrinkles, not for deeper wrinkles. Dr. prescribed fillers, as well as other procedures such as laser resurfacing, are the only methods that are effective for deep wrinkle treatment.
Consider the following:
This glycolic acid serum from Alpha Skin Care may be used on a regular basis to decrease the appearance of surface lines and wrinkles. After that, you can apply an AHA moisturizer, such as NeoStrata’s Face Cream Plus AHA 15, to your skin.
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5. They help to increase blood flow to the skin.
AHAs contain anti-inflammatory characteristics that can aid in the promotion of blood flow to the skin, which is beneficial. This can assist in the correction of pale and dreary complexions. Proper blood flow also ensures that skin cells receive the nutrients they require through the passage of oxygen-rich red blood cells.
Consider the following:
Try this daily serum from First Aid Beauty to brighten dull skin and reduce the lack of oxygen that contributes to it.
6. They aid in the reduction and correction of discoloration.
The likelihood of developing skin discoloration increases as you get older. For example, sun exposure may result in the development of flat brown patches known as age spots (lentigines) on the skin. Skin cancers are most commonly found on the parts of the body that are exposed to the sun on a regular basis, such as the chest, hands, and face.
AHAs help to speed up the turnover of skin cells. The pigmentation of new skin cells is uniform. AHAs have the potential to decrease skin discoloration in the long run by stimulating the turnover of old, discolored skin cells, according to the hypothesis.
Glycolic acid is recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology for the treatment of the discoloration.
Consider the following:
Discoloration can be improved by using an AHA on a regular basis, such as Murad’s AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser. A more intensive treatment, such as this citric-acid mask by Mario Badescu, can be beneficial as well.
7. They aid in the treatment and prevention of acne.
You may be familiar with benzoyl peroxide and other acne-fighting ingredients that can be used to treat stubborn blemishes on the skin. AHAs may also be beneficial in the treatment and prevention of recurring acne.
A mix of dead skin cells, oil (sebum), and bacteria cause your pores to get blocked, resulting in acne pimples on your skin. It is possible to loosen and eliminate the blockage by exfoliating with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Continued usage may also help to prevent blockages from developing in the future.
The use of AHAs can also help to minimize the appearance of enlarged pores, which are prevalent in acne-prone skin. The exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids that exfoliate the skin can even help to reduce acne scarring. Some acne products also contain other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as citric and malic acids, to help soothe and heal inflamed skin.
In addition, AHAs aren’t just for the face anymore! In addition to your rear and chest, you may use AHA products on other acne-prone regions of your body.
According to the Mayo Clinic, it might take between two and three months before you notice a substantial improvement in your acne symptoms. Keep in mind that the items will only work if you are patient and allow them to do their thing. In addition, you must use the products on a continuous basis; missing daily treatments makes it take longer for the chemicals to have full effect.
Consider the following:
To get rid of dead skin cells and excess oil, use an acne-clearing gel, such as this one from Peter Thomas Roth, to clean your skin. When it comes to acne-prone skin, an AHA peel can still be beneficial, but you should look for one that is specifically designed for your skin type. For acne-prone skin, try out Juice Beauty’s Green Apple Blemish Clearing Peel, which contains green apple extract.
8. They aid in increasing the absorption of products.
AHAs, in addition to providing their own distinct benefits, can improve the efficacy of your existing products by increasing their absorption through the skin.
Example: If you have too many dead skin cells on your face, your daily moisturizer will simply sit on top of your face, not hydrating the new skin cells beneath them. AHAs such as glycolic acid can help to break through this layer of dead skin cells, allowing your moisturizer to more effectively hydrate your new skin cells under the surface.
Consider the following:
Exuviance’s Moisture Balance Toner, which you use after washing and before applying your serum and moisturizer, can help you enhance the absorption of your daily products that contain AHAs by as much as 50%.
What much of AHA is required?
An AHA product with an overall AHA content of less than 10% is generally recommended by the FDA as a general rule of thumb. This helps to reduce the likelihood of AHA-related adverse effects.
According to the Cleveland Clinic, products containing more than 15 percent AHA should not be used on a regular basis.
AHA concentrations in daily-use products, such as serums, toners, and moisturizers, are lower than in professional formulations. For example, a serum or a toner with a 5 percent AHA concentration might be available.
The use of highly intense products, such as glycolic acid peels, is restricted to a few times each week to decrease the risk of adverse effects.
Are there any probable negative effects?
In the case that you have never used AHAs before, you may notice minimal adverse effects while your skin becomes used to the substance.
The following are examples of temporary adverse effects:
- burning
- itching
- blisters
- Dermatitis is a skin condition that affects the skin (eczema)
The Cleveland Clinic suggests that you use AHA products every other day in order to decrease your chances of being irritated. As your skin becomes used to AHAs, you may gradually increase the frequency with which you apply them.
When you’re out in the sun, you should exercise additional caution. It is possible that the peeling effects of highly concentrated AHAs will make your skin more susceptible to UV radiation for up to one week following their application. To avoid sunburn, you should use sunscreen every day and reapply it more frequently during the day.
If you have any of the following conditions, you should see your doctor before using:
- freshly shaved skin
- cuts or burns on your skin
- rosacea
- psoriasis
- eczema
Women who are pregnant or nursing should additionally check with their doctor before using this product. If your doctor gives you the green light to use AHA products, look for ones that are specifically designed for pregnancy, such as Juice Beauty’s Green Apple Pregnancy Peel.