It’s time to discuss chemical exfoliation.
Exfoliation is critical for maintaining bright, smooth, and healthy-looking skin in general. Unless dead skin cells are eliminated, they accumulate on the surface, resulting in a dull, gritty look; flakiness; and perhaps blocked pores and outbreaks. As is the case with many individuals, I love using a scrub every now and then, but daily physical exfoliation is not something I suggest. For one thing, it may be dirty and labor-consuming, especially when compared to chemical exfoliation, and for another thing, excessive physical exfoliation can be uncomfortable and result in broken capillaries. As a result, I prefer chemical exfoliation to manual exfoliation for daily upkeep.
Chemical exfoliants are classified into two categories: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs and BHAs perform distinct functions and complement one another effectively when used as part of a well-designed daily skincare program. They should, however, be approached cautiously at first. Do not begin using both products concurrently, and refrain from using them daily unless you are certain your skin will accept them well. I recommend starting with an AHA and gradually increasing to once every other day, then once daily, and finally twice daily if you can tolerate the morning wait, which I personally cannot. The same is true for BHAs.
AHAs clarified
Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble chemical exfoliants that aid in the exfoliation of surface skin by breaking the connections between cells, allowing for easier shedding of dead skin. It’s critical to remember that they do not disintegrate the dead skin. Neither do they work instantly, as some claim? AHAs simply accelerate and optimize the skin regeneration process when used at daily dosages of between 5% and 10%.
AHAs are beneficial for the following:
- Skin whitening
- Evening out the skin tone
- Efforts to mitigate hyperpigmentation associated with acne scarring
- Reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles
- Hydrating
AHA cautions and recommends
When utilizing AHA products, it is critical to use sunscreen. AHAs are photosensitizing, which means they enhance the sensitivity of your skin to the sun. Even if you use AHAs just at night, excessive sun exposure without appropriate UV protection will result in greater sun damage. You are well aware that I believe sunscreen is critical for preventing wrinkles and keeping healthy, young skin. It is especially more critical when AHAs are used. If you use AHAs but do not use sunscreen, you will negate any advantages from the AHA product.
Finally, the pH of AHA compounds is critical to their efficacy. AHA products must have a pH of between 3 and 4 in order to exfoliate. If the pH is less than 3, the substance is excessively acidic, and you risk chemical burns (fortunately, I’ve never heard of an AHA product with a pH less than 3). If the pH is more than 4, it will simply not function.
BHAs are defined
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble chemical exfoliants that function similarly to AHAs but penetrate deeper into pores to clean them out than AHAs do due to their oil solubility. The most well-known and widely used BHA is salicylic acid, which is not technically a BHA, but for the sake of discussing chemical exfoliation, it may as well be. BHAs are generally found at concentrations of 2% for everyday usage, but can occasionally reach 4%. BHAs are beneficial for the following purposes:
- Cleaning debris, oil, and dead skin cells from pores, particularly those on and around the T-zone that are generally more noticeable
- Inflammation reduction
Cautionary statements and best practices from the BHA
As with AHAs, BHA products must have a pH of between 3 and 4 to function correctly while remaining safe for the skin. While BHA products will retain some anti-inflammatory properties at higher pH levels, they will be incapable of exfoliating or clearing pores. Additionally, many people find BHAs drying, so ensure that your regimen includes adequate hydration and moisturization before experimenting with a BHA.
Combining AHAs and BHAs
Due to the fact that AHAs and BHAs address distinct skin issues, many individuals, like me, opt to utilize both in the same routine. Here are some pointers:
- Utilize your AHAs and BHAs as soon as feasible following cleaning. The closer they are to naked skin, the more efficient they are, and because they are pH-dependent, you won’t have to worry about other products’ higher pH interfering with the acids’ exfoliating activity. They are used immediately following my vitamin C serum, as my vitamin C serum also has a pH of between 3 and 4.
- Utilize your BHA first, followed by your AHA. This allows the BHA to penetrate deeper into clogged or unclean pores while also prepping the rest of your skin for the AHA.
- Wait at least 20 minutes after applying your acids before continuing with the rest of your regimen. That is approximately how long it takes for the acids to neutralize, so waiting will allow your AHA and BHA products to function optimally.
- Avoid AHA or BHA cleansers as well as other wash-off products. They do not remain on the skin long enough to have an exfoliating impact and are almost certainly not at the proper pH level in the first place.
Why do I use Western AHAs and BHAs rather than Asian AHAs and BHAs?
I might be mistaken, but it appears as though AHA and BHA products have just lately gained traction in the Korean skincare industry. That is, at any rate, how it appears to me. Asian brands frequently emphasize scrubs, “peeling” products, and other physical exfoliation techniques. However, lines like CosRX are gaining momentum for their AHA and BHA products, and Mizon has an AHA serum that I’ve heard is both effective and pH-balanced, so I’m sure I’ll be experimenting with some Asian chemical exfoliants in the future. For the time being, though, I’ll continue to use my Stridex pads for BHA and Paula’s Choice gel for AHA.
I’ve attempted to simplify AHAs and BHAs, but if you’re interested in learning more about the science underlying chemical exfoliation, check out Hoojoo Beauty’s page on chemical exfoliation.