Celine, a character created by Phoebe Philo, entered the world feet first. There was the Celine shoe before the baggage bag, the Daria Werbowy advertisements, and even a single Philo-designed outfit. How am I aware? Because when Vogue sent writer Vicki Woods to Philo’s in 2009 for a studio interview months before her debut Celine collection, her attention was instantly pulled below.
“The first thing I want to do is remove her shoes. The vintage-inspired strappy fronts are crafted from face-powder pink soft leather, while the rear is elevated on a red and black towering stilt, complete with a slick of metal. This is a pair of Celine shoes. This is the first time I’ve ever felt a desire to acquire a Celine shoe. I tell her the colors are fantastic, the heel is fantastic, and the proportions, with the rounded front, are fantastic,” Woods wrote in Vogue’s October 2009 edition. “Phoebe Philo beams a smile. ‘Yes. I like a brief conclusion.'”
Even with their short lifespans, Philo’s shoes have had a significant effect on fashion. For spring 2010, she debuted a pair of wood-soled platforms with caramel leather uppers that elevated models five inches as they marched down Philo’s stone runway. Sarah Mower of Vogue attributed the shoes as contributing to the collection’s popularity at the time, referring to “the magic of the wedge sandal that made every single outfit work.” Those buff-toned stompers served as the foundation for Philo’s kingdom of the stylish and weird. Heels would continue to rule for seasons, from the heavily replicated white geometric designs of autumn 2012 to the thigh-skimming second-skin boots of fall 2013. The furkenstock was introduced in the interim.
The spring 2013 sandals sparked a media frenzy. Miley Cyrus and Tilda Swinton both wore them. Their pastel pink and baby blue fluffy insteps were an instant success, potentially detracting from Philo’s other season offerings: a naked pump with trompe l’oeil toes and three completely fur alternatives in cherry red and Big Bird yellow. Things became more exciting then: spring 2014’s ball-heeled mules and slip-on sneakers with “love” and “life” printed on heel tabs; spring 2015’s scrunched-front glove shoes; spring 2016’s white lug-soled Chelsea boots. Strangest of all are the babouches featured in this year’s vacation collection, which are ultra-flat and buckled, resembling something a punk monk could wear beneath his robes.
While we cannot predict what will be available at Phoebe Philo’s new namesake company, we can reflect on her previous successes. Aren’t you in desperate need of them?