A lady drops serum into her palm using a pipette for an article about exfoliating skincare acids such as AHAs and BHAs, such as glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids.
When applied correctly, a moderate skincare acid—either alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)—can perform miracles on the skin. The primary benefit of AHAs and BHAs is that they exfoliate, removing dead skin cells and revealing a more youthful, clean complexion. While acids can provide a desirable shine, the improper application can result in irritation and redness.
Brenda Patten, a nurse practitioner at The Beauty Clinic by Shoppers, and Dr. Zaki Taher, a dermatologist and associate professor at the University of Alberta’s Faculty of Medicine, were kind enough to share what we know about exfoliating skincare acids.
What are skincare acids—and why should you use them?
Using exfoliating acid-containing skin care products stimulates skin turnover, revealing a more even complexion. There are several different types of acids on the market—some target acne, some target dark spots, and still others target wrinkles and fine lines more deeply, according to Taher.
AHAs and BHAs act particularly to remove dead skin cells that contribute to dullness and breakouts. Additionally, dead skin cells obstruct the skin’s ability to absorb other skincare products, such as serums and creams, and may clog pores, which means that integrating acids into your regimen will improve your shine. According to Patten, acids can also aid enhance moisture and overall skin texture.
What are the many kinds of acids?
While there are several types of skincare acids, just a few are frequently used for exfoliating. According to Taher, the two most well-known alpha-hydroxy acids are glycolic and lactic acid. Glycolic and lactic acids are extremely similar, although lactic is a touch softer on the skin, making it an excellent choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Salicylic acid is the most well-known beta-hydroxy acid and is an excellent choice for acne-prone, congested skin.
How are AHAs and BHAs different?
“Glycolic and lactic acids (AHAs) help break up dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and aid in soothing, exfoliating, and removing superficial pigmentation on the skin’s outer layer. It may even assist with certain elements of acne,” Taher explains.
“Salicylic acid is particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin, oily skin that is prone to congestion, and moderate acne,” Taher says. Salicylic acid penetrates the skin more deeply than AHAs, removing build-up, blemishes, and clogging pores.
AHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface to address roughness and uneven texture, whilst BHAs exfoliate deeper into the pores to combat excess oil.
How can I incorporate an exfoliating skincare acid into my routine most effectively?
“Acids should be gradually introduced into your beauty regimen, either as a cleanser, toner, or serum, depending on your concerns,” Patten recommends. If you’re interested in experimenting with a concentrated serum or toner containing active acid components, Patten and Taher both advocate starting slowly and using the product only once or twice a week until your skin develops a tolerance. As your skin develops this tolerance, an acid may be incorporated more frequently, according to Patten.
Take it easy with AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid and use a lesser percentage of acid (about 5%) a few times a week to observe how your skin reacts. If you’re new to acids, start with pre-soaked toner pads—each pad has the optimal quantity of product, preventing overapplication that might irritate the skin. Apply serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen thereafter. If all goes according to plan, you may gradually raise the frequency of your application and eventually increase the %. (the maximum allowed in Canada is 30 percent in over-the-counter formulas). Taher states that benefits, such as cleaner, more luminous skin, take between two and four weeks to manifest.
Salicylic acid concentrations in products generally range between 0.5 and 2%—make your pick based on your skin’s tolerance. Patten emphasizes the need of gradually incorporating the component into your regimen for sensitive skin types, while individuals with oilier skin may typically tolerate acids better. Are you still unsure? Consult an expert. “Because everyone’s skin reacts and responds differently, it’s better to pick an exfoliation routine with the assistance of a knowledgeable skin care specialist,” Patten explains.
When is it OK to apply a skincare acid?
Both AHAs and BHAs are suitable for usage at any time of day or night. Certain treatments are designed to be used overnight as an overnight peel, while others (typically serums) are designed to be used in the morning to gently exfoliate the skin. Always use sunscreen during the day, regardless of when you use your skincare acid—acids can make your skin more susceptible to sunlight.
Are more costly goods always superior in terms of AHAs and BHAs?
According to Patten and Taher, costs for over-the-counter medications can vary significantly—and you typically get what you pay for. However, it is hard to assess the quality of a skincare product just on the basis of its price. Certain more costly formulas may contain scents or other substances that may irritate the skin, while less-priced products may have harsh formulae that do the same thing. Both experts believe that because there is no hard and fast rule, it is advisable to start with a mild product within your price range and gradually raise the concentration or price of the product before moving on to a higher concentration or more costly product.
If you have a specific skincare problem (such as dullness or pimples), Patten recommends consulting a dermatologist or a skincare clinic specialist. “Since medical-grade skincare products are tailored to individual issues, this may be of interest to you if your over-the-counter acid isn’t giving the benefits you’re looking for.”
What if my skin becomes inflamed as a result of utilizing a skincare acid?
“There are a lot of reasons why an acid or any skincare product may cause a response, including allergy, excessive use, or the use of active ingredients in the incorrect combination,” Patten explains. If you have an unfavorable reaction to an acid, such as irritation or redness, Patten and Taher recommend discontinuing therapy and consulting skincare professional.
One negative encounter does not necessitate complete abstinence from acids; instead, experiment with a lesser dosage or a different type of acid. “While it is critical to give the skin time to recuperate, there is no need to be scared or avoid trying anything new in the future,” Taher adds.
It should be mentioned that acids should not be used around the eyes because the skin is thinner and more sensitive in that region.
Is it possible to combine acids for skincare with other active ingredients?
While certain skin types may tolerate stacking many active ingredients simultaneously, others may develop redness or irritation. Unless you’re already familiar with exfoliating acids, Patten recommends introducing new products one at a time. If your skin gets irritated, the product may need to be introduced at a lesser frequency or the product may not be suitable for you.
Proceed with caution if you are taking other active substances, such as retinol. “Adding an acid may cause irritation and redness in the beginning, and it should not be used in conjunction with retinol until your skin develops a tolerance,” Patten explains. Once your skin has acclimated to the usage of an acid, you can use exfoliating acids in conjunction with retinol and other active substances. Rather than that, alternate between acid in the morning and retinol at night, or between an acid and a retinol-infused product at night.