Active ingredients are our friends, as anybody concerned in skincare is aware.
Acids and retinol are two of the most well-established:
- Acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) exfoliants. The AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) family comprises glycolic and lactic acids, whereas the BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) family contains only one member, salicylic acid.
- Retinol is a vitamin A and vitamin A derivative that belongs to the retinoid family. While active vitamin A (retinoic acid) is only available via prescription, retinol is available without a prescription.
Both acids and retinoids have a variety of beneficial effects on the skin, from resurfacing to removing dark spots to easing fine lines and wrinkles.
If one active is beneficial, wouldn’t a regimen with two actives be much more beneficial?
Not quite yet! You may have heard that acids and retinol do not mix well—and you would be correct.
Thankfully, you do not need to pick between these skincare components.
It is OK to combine an AHA and retinol in the same skincare routine, as well as a BHA and retinol. (If your skin is extremely tolerant, you may choose to use all three, however, this is not required.)
However, there is a catch. They MUST BE APPLIED AT THE APPROPRIATE TIMES AND IN THE APPROPRIATE ORDER in order to reduce discomfort and get the greatest outcomes achievable.
Permit me to elaborate…
Why Acids and Retinol Are Incompatible
When retinol is applied directly over an acid, the efficacy of both substances is diminished.
Before we get into the “how,” I’d want to briefly discuss the “why”—the reason you should never combine retinol and acids.
Irritation: To begin, there is a greater risk of irritation when using two powerful exfoliants concurrently. This can compromise your skin’s barrier, causing inflammation and sensitivity.
Second, retinol’s conversion is impaired on acidic skin. As a vitamin A derivative, it must be transformed by your body into retinoic acid before it can be used by your skin. According to this study, “hydrolysis response is higher at neutral pH,” implying that the conversion process is more optimum on non-acidic skin.
Acid inactivation: On the other hand, acids permeate better at a lower pH (for example, see this research). Therefore, if you layer retinol with a higher pH atop an acid, the retinol may neutralize the acid—raise its pH—and render it ineffective. Additionally, it is a waste of excellent stuff!
To Try: Acid and Retinol Routines
Now, are you ready to learn how to include both active substances into your daily routine?
Here are some possibilities for you to consider…
Option 1: Morning acids, evening retinol
The safest approach to utilize acids and retinoids is to apply them at various intervals throughout the day.
Is it significant which one you use when? Prescription retinoids, on the other hand, should always be taken at night since they might degrade in the presence of light and leave your skin more susceptible to sunburn. Therefore, if you are using Retin-A, you should apply your acid products first thing in the morning.
Over-the-counter retinol does not produce the same level of sun sensitivity, and some of the newer formulations may be sufficiently photostable to be worn throughout the daytime with a decent sunscreen.
However, the majority of dermatologists continue to advocate retinol use at night.
Personally, I like to use an AHA or BHA in the morning to remove any flaky dead skin cells left over from my retinoid use the night before. Exfoliating in the morning also prepares your skin for makeup application.
Attempt the following products:
- COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (reviewed here) is the BHA treatment’s Holy Grail (it uses gentle betaine salicylate, a salicylic acid derivative).
- A313 Vitamin A Pommade (reviewed here) is a retinoid formulation from a French pharmacy that is one of my all-time favorite products.
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA (reviewed here) is a mild form of lactic acid.
- Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is a fragrance-free, silicone-free retinol lotion.
Alternate Nights
Option 2: Alternate Nights
Another alternative is to utilize your active ingredients exclusively at night, one at a time. This may imply the following:
- One night, acids; the next, retinoids.
- Two nights of acids, followed by retinoids on the third night.
- Two nights of retinoids, followed by acids on the third night.
- One night with acids, the next with retinoids, and finally a night with the only moisturizer.
Or any other mixture, depending on the tolerance of your skin.
This is an excellent method to handle actives if you have sensitive skin or are new to utilizing harsher treatments and want to build up tolerance gradually.
Attempt the following products:
- Lotion P50T (reviewed here) from Biologique Recherche is a cult-favorite exfoliating toner nicknamed “Jesus in a bottle.”
- Shani Darden’s Resurface Retinol Reform (reviewed here) is a retinoid and lactic acid combo therapy (and another one of my favorites).
- SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense contains salicylic acid at a concentration of 1.5 percent, as well as glycolic and dioic acids.
- The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane (reviewed here) is cost-effective retinol-based on squalane oil.
Option 3: Wait 30 Minutes
You may apply acid and a retinoid concurrently… but only if you have time to wait between layers!
It is irrelevant which one you apply first; simply choose the one with the lightest texture. This is often the acid. For instance, I would use Lotion P50 or The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA first, due to their thin nature.
After that, let at least 30 minutes for your skin’s pH to restore to normal.
After the waiting period expires, you can apply for your second active.
This is often the retinoid, and the majority will have a thicker texture. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni, for example, is creamy, while A313 Vitamin A Pommade is a thick ointment.
There is still a possibility that the retinoid will not convert as well as it would without the acid, but the additional time should assist significantly!
Attempt the following products:
- Skin Perfecting by Paula’s Choice 2 percent BHA Liquid is a highly effective exfoliant containing 2% salicylic acid.
- A-Passioni by Drunk Elephant is a moisturizing 1% retinol cream.
- Acne Clearing Pads with White Clay by First Aid Beauty are handy acid pads soaked in a 2% salicylic acid solution.
- Lixirskin Night Switch Retinol 1% is a light serum with a high 1% retinol content.
Conclusion
I hope this clears up some of the misunderstandings about acids and retinoids!
I understand your desire for maximum skin benefits—believe me, I am the same way. However, in the interest of safeguarding your skin barrier and avoiding financial waste (by weakening or inactivating anything), I believe it is critical to utilize these substances carefully.
Personally, I’ve had excellent results using my favorite COSRX BHA both morning and night, as well as Resurface by Shani Darden Retinol Reform on a few evenings a week. On evenings when I am too exhausted to wait 30 minutes, I either skip the BHA or the retinol.